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Adventures in Lower Puna



To get a sense of the real Puna, particularly the area near the village of Pahoa, a great place to check out is the Maku'u Farmers' Market. While tourists do happen upon it, it is truly a locals venue. There, you'll find people selling everything from professionally grown and displayed produce and plants to the junk from their houses. You can buy a tropical plant or fresh herbs. You can also get a massage, acupuncture or a tarrot reading. Food vendors schlepp crepes, loco mocos and tamales. I sampled a killer green papaya salad, with a side of bbq banana sticky rice. Yes, you can pick up a couple of tomatoes there, just like any farmers' market. But if fruits, veggies and plants aren't your bag, you can ogle a used blender, flip through dog eared paperbacks, purchase hand strung jewelry, try on a pair of draw-string pants made from hemp and a tie-dye t-shirt to match. It's a hodgepodge, for sure. And if the goods aren't interesting enough for you, the people should fill that void. There are hippies, yuppies and every form of independent, free spirit you can imagine. Today, I overheard neighbors arguing about dogs at large. Guy number one was of the philosophy that the dogs should be free to roam. Guy two was tired of being attacked or followed by dogs when he walks the neighborhood. I would definitely have to side with guy number two on that one. The Maku'u Market is now open both Saturdays and Sundays and has grown so popular that they have parking attendents guiding drivers through the maze of cars flocking to the site.
Next to the market, there is a small hale, or hut, designed as a shelter under which canoes are built. There, I saw a lone man sanding a canoe. His name is Kioni. He learned his craft as a kid and is now guiding youngsters himself, teaching them the art and skill of canoe-building. A picture book showed the entire process from start to almost finish. The canoe was carved from a single, huge log. Kioni said it would be ready for the water in about four more days. I may go back to see it, complete with outrigger, ready for the open ocean.
The main reason for my trip to Pahoa this morning was a job interview. A couple is starting a new hiking/biking guide company here on the east side of the island. They are in the process of hiring guides. So, I threw my name in the hat. I don't know if I'll be chosen from the dozens who've applied, but I enjoyed meeting them nonetheless.
It really was a beautiful morning. The sunshine didn't last all day, but it was glorious while it lasted.
Monday begins another week. A hui hou. Aloha!

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